Underworks Binders Masterlist

The underworks website is a huge confusing mess. Here’s a summary with reference numbers that you can type into the search bar at www.underworks.com.

Econo high power compression chest binder: top 943, tank 947(long)
Cotton lined power chest binder: top 975, tank 977(long)
Cotton concealer chest binder: 988(long,half binding)
Tri-top chest binder: 983
Microfibre concealer v-tank: 996(long)
Ultimate chest binder tank: 997(long)
Microfibre conceal crew: 998(long)
Extreme Magicotton Sports and Binding Bra: 3108

Most of the binders, except the sports bra, are under men>compression shirts. The one most people talk about when they talk about underworks binders is the tri-top (983), but there are actually Options.

For the short binders, econo/943, cotton-lined/975 and tri-top/983 look pretty much the same. The econo/943 is cheaper, with only one slightly translucent layer of material (the tri-top/983 is 3 layers) and hence suitable for people with smaller chests who would not benefit much from additional binding power. The cotton/975 is also one binding layer, but lined with cotton on the inside and MUCH more comfortable than the other two, which are scratchy nylon/lycra/spandex material on both sides. The cotton/975 is lower cut than the other two, which might result in some spillover at the armpits. The tri-top/983 is A LOT stronger than the other two, and much more difficult to get on.

Comparison with gc2b: gc2b (another popular line of binders) is made of swimsuit material except the binding panel, while underworks is all-round compression. gc2b feels MUCH nicer and less rough overall with better and sturdier design, but causes back pain for me due to proportion of shoulders or something, which is why I’m trying different brands. Unlike underworks, gc2b is specifically designed for trans people, shapes better, and is more bindy than the econo/943, less bindy than tri-top/983. Price is about the same, underworks shipping (to singapore; idk about other places) costs more and is much faster.

For the full length binders, stomach compression tends to “smooth things out”, and is good for bigger chests to prevent slipping out, but can be uncomfortably constricting and tends to ride up. Consider heat! The 988 is long but only bindy in the top half and has the benefit of looking like a tank top without stomach compression. The 996, 997 and 998 are fully compressing and only differ in neckline and sleeve shape. 988 vs 997.  996/7 vs tri-top/983.

The binding sports bra/3108 is more comfortable and less bindy than the other binders, and hence may be useful for people with larger chests who don’t want that much compression, or in combination with the full length binders (3108+998, video). Sports bras don’t do anything for people with chests smaller than the built-in cups though, obviously. (As such a person, I usually wear training bras without the cups. Occasionally I use athletic tape. I don’t bind very often.)

Underworks Binders Masterlist

Detach/Reattach

My brother, on occasion, slips and calls me his “sister.” Like a good trans person, I correct him. But some part of me cannot admit that when he says it, I am sometimes comforted—not because I am a woman or was ever a girl, but because I remember the warmth and protection his voice carried when he said it to me, when I was small and still new to this world.

When he says “sister,” it evokes a memory—a very particular one—of blood. When I cut my head open when I was 13, and despite his undeniable phobia of blood, he held his breath and a towel firmly against the wound while I cried. He was brave and he was sensitive and he spoke so softly to me. Then, and many times over, I was so proud to be his “sister.”

I admit that I am still learning to be proud of being his “brother,” too.

Like many trans people, I am learning to reattach to new words and new parts.

How I Both Need and Grieve My Gender Transition, LQTU

Transition takes so damn much effort; both external, eg coming out to people, and internal RECONFIGURATION. Detachment from the familiar. Reattachment to the foreign.

You know how chemical reactions require activation energy to break apart existing bonds so that new, potentially more stable ones can form? Look I found a graph. There’s even a “transition state” labelled, lol.

Image result for activation energy graph

I want to be on the right side of that graph, nicely settled into my gender and body, empirically more comfortable and requiring less energy than my birth assigned gender. But here I am still having to climb that cliff, moving away from the familiar discomfort into even greater unfamiliar discomfort, aka a rock and a hard place, aka the frying pan fire thing, but that’s enough metaphors in one sentence.

Example: I gag a bit whenever I try to think of myself as “she”. But at the same time it is so familiar, like very old shoes. It took almost a year and a lot of angst (SO MUCH angst) not only to get at least some people to use “they” at least some of the time, but also for me to hear it enough that it no longer feels unnatural and foreign.

In some areas I have “transitioned” and gotten over the hill and at least partially reattached. But then there are so many more people to come out to and have to constantly correct, new contexts to come out in, gendered situations to renegotiate… and I need to get used to all those things; recently it often feels like too much trouble to climb those hills.

My family calls me meimei (little sister). Sometimes when female friends call me girl I don’t correct them either. At work, where I am not out, people call me xiaojie when they are pretending to be formal, and when I do something dumb. When I buy things hawkers call me xiaomei and are nice to me because I am young. These words are affectionate. I don’t like being misgendered, but what gender neutral equivalents are there that hold the same emotional meaning? Even if there are words that I could start practicing using, they don’t currently have the weight of personal and cultural history, and there has to be all that effort.

I feel like the “good trans person” response is to correct all these people every time, because how else are we going to get to the other side of the hill? But I always let it slide, in order to accept and enjoy the connection that the person is trying to make with me. I don’t want to detach, and I don’t even know what there is to reattach to. That’s what you get for trying to transition to an avant-garde gender. There are ALL THESE THINGS to uproot and replant, and there is nowhere to plant most of them.

This is also how I currently feel about physical transition. What does that even look like if I don’t in any way want to look like or be read as a man, and what do i do with my attachment to my current body? BLEAH it’s all so much EFFORT and I don’t! WANNA! OKAY??

But of course, dysphoria fucking sucks and transition helps, and I am always trying to avoid difficult things I know are prolly good for me. So I know that what I need to do is to give myself time and space, but also suck it up and be brave sometimes. It will get better. I will grow into my gender, even if right now I cannot imagine what that might look like. Bring a brick, not a cathedral. Okay? Okay.

Detach/Reattach

What I Want

No, I don’t want strangers to read me as a man. I’m not a man, why would I want strangers to think I’m a man? Would you (hypothetical non-male participant in this conversation) want people to read you as a man?

“oh, but I thought…”

I want people to read me as genderqueer. I want them to look at me and decide, hm, genderqueer. Isn’t that also what YOU (hypothetical binarily gendered participant in this conversation) want, or even expect? You expect people to read you as your actual gender, not something “close enough” that isn’t actually even close, don’t you?

“but realistically… people are only going to pick from male/female. Don’t you prefer one over the other?”

Say you have green hair. Would you prefer people think you have blue or red hair? Would you, (hypothetically) a binary cis woman, prefer people think you are genderfluid or genderqueer?

Why do I have to choose? I want people to read me as my gender, is that too much to ask? Apparently it is if I’m not a binary gender. But you asked what I want. I want to live in a world where my gender is an option on lists, and I want people to select that option for me. I want my gender to be affirmed every day in the thousand little ways that binary genders are affirmed, in bathrooms and honorifics and pronouns and “welcome, how may I help you, SIR”. I want to experience the relief and joy and affirmation my binary trans friends experience when they begin to transition and the world starts to read them correctly at last. Confusion is not good enough. Avoiding referring to me is not good enough. Being read half the time one way and half the time the other, and wrong all the time, is not good enough.

So, no. I don’t want to be called sir by random people. It’s not “close enough”. It’s NOWHERE near close to what I want, and you asked what I want.

What I Want

Doctors: Allies/Gatekeepers

So it turns out that parts of the trans healthcare landscape in Singapore, and in particular my therapist, are much more excellent than I had thought.

I am hypothetically maybe possibly perhaps thinking about going on T, but not soon: a post for another time. Meanwhile though, I have been researching my options and thinking about things. One thing I have been wondering about is: do I, a nonbinary person, have to lie about being a binary transman in order to get prescribed T? Continue reading “Doctors: Allies/Gatekeepers”

Doctors: Allies/Gatekeepers